Monday, July 30, 2012

TLX Castle - tower floors coming along

I made a couple of the catwalk pieces, with anchors on the top and bottom. It works pretty darn well, slotting them into the posts below them. It'd be too wobbly without the support pieces, but the support pieces (after some adjustments down to the proper size) seem to work really well.

I had enough time this evening to also kitbash the tower floor tiles. They're based on a 6" tile, but are 3/4 round and squared off in the remaining corner - kind of tear drop shaped. This will allow me to make the exterior of the castle towers rounded, but the interior will use standard 3" walls to facilitate doors, and abut the catwalks nicely. The edging is done a-la Hinterland tree bases. I've done it on other tiles, and it's worked well (and it spared me from making my own cutfiles!)

It's going to take a couple days to get all of the catwalk and tower floor pieces assembled, so no photo yet. After that, I'm probably going to do up a ton of the crenelations, making the castle look more... well, castley. Hmph. Spell check doesn't think 'castley' is a word. Maybe it will once it sees the photos...

I'm still thinking about how to do rounded TLX crenelations, but I have some ideas for that too.

TLX Castle - More Photos of First Floor

I snapped a shot of the first floor now that I've got the remaining walls in place. There's still a couple anchors missing from some of the tiles, and I'm working on getting those complete.


I'm looking forward to making the towers! I've settled on a tear-drop shape, which will make it easier for me to wrap catwalks around.

I've kitbashed a 6" catwalk piece, and will be assembling that tonight to see how well it fits in. For this build, I need a lot of 6" pieces, and only a couple 3" pieces, so I'm focusing on the larger ones now. I think I really like my support braces. They can slot into posts when walls are there, too, giving a little extra support when the end wall doesn't have the anti-warp top on it. I have a little fine-tuning to do, but it's certainly adequate as is.

There already was a wood beam texture in the CastleWorks set, so I just adjusted it to fit. I intentionally made the top ledge short (it doesn't rub up against the post) but I might reconsider that.

Sunday, July 29, 2012

TLX Castle - First Photos of First Floor

Things are slowly coming together. I almost have enough pieces to make the first floor I've been planing. Here's a picture of the layout of the tiles:






I used a couple Thoumont's tiles and a Lost Halls tile in order to mark where the buildings will go. Eventually, I'll be using textures from the CastleWorks set for the buildings - I just haven't gotten there yet.

The whole point of the exercise for laying out the first floor is trying to figure out how many walls or posts I really need, and also to give me a foundation for catwalks and stuff.

Here's a shot with some walls added in:





As I type this, my robo cutter is churning out more 3-way and 4-way posts, and I've already cut out the necessary walls for the corner towers and the back wall. Just one more sheet of anchors for the 6" tiles...

Friday, July 27, 2012

Blooper reel? Examples of how things can go wrong...

Maybe it's because I am trying to cram a lot of the building of pieces into a short period of time. Maybe it's because that short period of time is almost always late at night. Maybe the universe is out to get me. Here are some examples of things that I've managed to goof up lately:


Bad Printouts - Scaling Issues
I have no idea how this one happened. One evening, I decided to tackle a ton of posts. I printed out about 18 pages of posts and planned to run them through the cutter, glue and edge them all in one night. After printing everything out, I started trying to feed the first one through the cutter. The cutter found the first registration mark, but failed to locate any others. It took me a while to realize what was wrong. Somehow I managed to tell Adobe Acrobat that it should shrink images to fit the page, rather than printing the actual size. You *never* want to do this. I've printed many many hundreds of pages and have never had this option set, so I don't know how I managed to toggle it. I must have misclicked somewhere. The good news is I have refillable cheap ink tanks, and I could just flip the cardstock over and reprint everything. All I lost is time.

Bad Kitbashing Images - Too Many Layers
I typically create a ton of layers representing the textures that will be applied to walls or posts or whatever, and then have layers for the templates that turn the textures into actual TLX pieces. This works great, except when I'm tired and in a hurry. I managed to save out several post pages with multiple template layers turned on. The result was a mess of overlapping cut lines for different types of posts. This time, I lost time, more cheap ink, and a couple pages of cardstock. The other effect is the frustration of making mistakes.

Bad Cutting - Wrong Cut Files
This isn't all that unusual for me, but it reminds me that sometimes you just have to walk away and do something different for a while. When cutting the posts, I managed to feed a 4-way post page through with a 3-way post cut file. The result... well... disappointing.

Bad Kitbashing Images - GIMP mistakes
One of the layers I've got in all of my images is the kitbash template base - it's got the logo at the top and the registration marks where they are supposed to be. Apparently I managed to slide this layer over about 5 pixels. Not enough for me to even notice it while working with images, exporting them or printing them. It's not even enough for the cutter to notice, since the registration marks are in the right relative positions. However, it meant that the lines it was cutting were off by 1/16" or more. There may be some pieces where I wouldn't even care - I'd just heavily edge the piece and move on. But, sadly, this was a page of anchors for my 6" tiles. The page takes ages to cut, and I intentionally set it to double-cut on a slower speed because the blade is getting dull. It was a big waste of time and wear on the blade, as well as time wasted peeling off all the little pieces left on the cutting mat.

Bad Cutting - Page Slipping
I usually am pretty good about checking the tackiness of the cutting mat before running anything, but sometimes I estimate incorrectly. I've had one or two sheets that have shifted during cutting - just enough to really make the cuts not quite line up.


Well, those are some of the types of mistakes I've been making as I try to build up a "set" of TLX castle pieces. With each mistake, I try to learn how to be more careful. I now make sure I hold up the page to the screen showing the cut file, so I can double-check that I've got the right one. I watch the cutter to make sure it reads all three registration marks correctly. I make sure I reapply some spray mount to the cutting mat if there are any sections that aren't sticking well. I double-check the speed and other settings when I open a cut file, just to make sure it's set the way I expect.

Live and learn.

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

TLX Castle - proposed layout

With the walls, posts and soon floors reaching the point where I can start making a larger build for photos, I fired up the TLX planner software and did a mock layout to see what I might need. Here's a first cut at a castle layout:


There's a LOT of moat there, isn't there? I put that in for effect - just used sewer pieces in the layout until I make TLX tiles for my set. I'm not sure how things will play out with the walls - will I find it easier to use single-height walls or double-height walls? Also, the corner tower pieces... I really want to experiment with rounded tiles more so that the layers above will fit nicely.

This layout ends up not being wildly different from the promo build layout I found on the WorldWorksGames forums. This is a good enough starting point for me to at least create a base with which to bounce around ideas on. Without this, everything I'm thinking about is theoretical.

More to come!

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

TLX Castle baby steps - posts are "done"

I think I have enough posts to work with now. Last night, I printed off a bunch and got them all cut, edged and glued.

I'm sure I will find a need for more posts, but I'll make them on an as-needed basis. I really need to get all my floors done now so I can build. I'm also noticing that the walls I have made are showing signs that the glue isn't sticking well in the corners. Not sure if that's going to be a real problem or not... Can't worry about that now!

Monday, July 23, 2012

TLX Castle Crenelations

I whipped up some simple crenelations for my TLX castle project. Here's a shot of a couple hand-made pieces:

On the closest and farthest walls, there's simple 6" crenelations. They're the same height as the originals, which I think is too large. I've made smaller ones that I think are more TLX-like.


There they are with their little TLX tabs.

So this picture shows off a converted "medium" complexity crenelation. I don't like it for a couple of reasons. First, it lacks crenelations, which really defeats the purpose. Second, it takes a LOT longer to build than the simple ones. Enough so that I think it's not worth stopping short of the "complex" crenelations. And lastly, well, this:

For all that work, it doesn't really fit well against the wall. Now, this may be due to the way I built it, but if I need a dozen of these things or more, then I'm going to have a bunch that are like this. I could spend some effort improving the geometry so this doesn't happen as much, but I think the simple crenelations are just fine for me.

I hope tonight to finish off a couple more tiles and a couple more posts. It's hard to try out builds when you don't have the infrastructure pieces!


Monday, July 16, 2012

TLX Castle Catwalks - supports?

I'm trying to figure out a creative way to support long catwalks for my castle, but without violating the spirit of TLX. The supports should be easy to build, fit into posts or on top of anchors, and it should be relatively flat.

Lest anyone think that little paper pieces are as simple as pulling out scissors and snipping away...


I did a lot of trial and error here. Here are some clear misses:


So, I had this thought while at work. Build a 1" square base support. On top, I can put these little lip pieces in the corners or along the middle. That would help hold the 1" catwalk in place. It seemed brilliant in theory, but a couple of things failed. First, the piece is wobbly. It doesn't anchor to anything. Second, the posts get in the way, so I can't position these where I need them. Finally, it certainly doesn't fit in with any TLX style pieces. Oh well.

After that attempt, I went really basic:


Well, this certainly is kinda TLX-ish. It slots into the posts, and is really flat and easy to build. Unfortunately, without any width, it doesn't do much to support the ends of the catwalk pieces. NEXT!

I've got a metric tonne of walls sitting on my desk right now, and many of them have the anti-warp triangular edge on them. Wait a minute... triangular edge! That's what I'll do!


Sadly in my rush some basic math eluded me. I was going to make a box, so I measured out each edge 1/4". But then I decided triangles are good enough for WWG, they should be good enough for me (and they're sturdier!). So I lobbed off one flap, and glued it into a triangle. As you can see, this causes the top to not be flat. The darn hypotenuse needs to be longer than the sides.






I like this one. It again slots right into the wall, but it's got ledges on both sides for ample support of either the ends or the middle of a catwalk piece. It's still not perfect - I'm going to try to make it easier to build a more reliably flat top. I might also try making some sort of... I don't know... something that might hold the catwalk piece in place more snug. Still trying...

Sunday, July 15, 2012

Lazy Sunday?

Well, I wouldn't call it *lazy*. My wife and I were able to stain one of the three decks hanging off the back of our house. It's gonna consume at least two more weekends to get this thing done! Between that and the kids, I got very little crafting done. I have at least created a couple additional templates for posts, which should pave the way to seeing a build with double-height walls.

Saturday, July 14, 2012

TLX Castle Wall - COMPLETE!

I can't express how happy I am with how this came out. I hope it holds together well! Here's a shot of the castle gate now:


And let's drop that baby down!


Oh yeah! The portcullis came out great. I made cutfiles for it, and it came out perfectly.


Boo yeah. The gate can open and close. Let's flip it around and see the magic.


Two things going on here. First, for the portcullis, there's actally a 2nd layer of cardstock with a gap between it and the main wall. That let's the gate slide up and down. Second, there's a cardstock bar attached to the base of the drawbridge. It's held on by some little boxes, allowing it to pivot open.


This wasn't my idea. I shamelessly adapted some great suggestions I received from others on the WorldWorksGames forums.

So, the main gate was completed today, and I mostly finished gluing up about two dozen more walls, though they're all short walls. Now I really need to get crackin' and get some 2-story walls and posts done up!

Friday, July 13, 2012

TLX Castle Gate - first build

Here's a quick shot of the castle gate wall piece:


I'm really happy with how it turned out. The fancy part on the top will hopefully look OK against a 2nd floor wall. I haven't built any 2-story posts yet, so forgive the use of some Hinterland Cliff posts...

I built the ballast box that attaches to the door, but I think it's way too silly looking on a TLX build, where everything is so flat except for this HUGE box. I'm going to try a couple different things. First, I'll try making a ballast box that is 1/4 as thick, and see if I can't still get enough penny weight to drop the door open. If that doesn't work... well... I'm hoping it will work.

I have plans for how to keep the door closed, but I haven't gotten to that yet. I'd rather build out the ramps to allow crossing the moat, and see how that looks.

I'm gonna shoot for a good nights sleep, so no more for tonight!

TLX Castle Gate

Oh, I hope I can build this tonight! I have a two-story wall for the TLX replacement of the gatehouse. I'm hoping it will work like this - the drawbridge will be cut around the top, but scored at the bottom edge. I didn't think this would work until I realized the drawbridge door has to be raised up to clear the moat edges! I think the non-TLX system of using a ballast box on the door to let it fall open will still work. I'm going to try to craft a system where a wooden beam piece can be affixed to the inside of the wall, preventing the drawbridge from falling open.

This wall piece took a lot of fiddling to work. It will have the fancy topper that the original had. I might toy with some additional texturing, but it seems quite good already.

There are some things I didn't get around to doing yet. I think I can support transparencies for the chains wired through the walls, and just not have the cranks to work them. They'll just flop down on the inside of the wall when the door is up. I haven't figured out how to hook up the portcullis to the wall. I think I might be able to come up with a scheme where it is dropped down from above, but it will require some guide pieces so it slides into the right place, and the main gate will have to be 4 floors tall (which probably isn't terrible... It IS a castle after all).

I haven't made all sorts of variations of the 2-story walls, but those will come. This was probably one of the harder pieces to do for the exterior walls. Before I can use 2-story walls, I need 2-story posts, so that should be next.

First test build with castle pieces

Here are a couple pictures of some of the pieces. It kills me to not have water in the moat. The pieces look really odd on their own. They're really intended, too, to be against a tall castle wall, not a single floor building...



So, that shows off a couple pieces that are done. I'm going to focus my efforts on creating some of the pieces rather than building them. I pulled a muscle in my back a week ago, and it was just starting to feel healed yesterday, but after spending 2 hours hunched over cutting out pieces, my back is killing me today!

Thursday, July 12, 2012

TLX Castle progress

So, by the time I cleaned up after my karate class this evening, it was already close to 9pm. Not a whole lot of time to do crafting. Thankfully, I was able to keep my robocutter humming the whole time. I hand-cut 20 6" walls, and while I edged and assembled them, my cutter was busy snipping out posts and 3" walls. I was able to finish edging and assembling the 10 plain 6" walls (not the anti-warp ones) and 4 of the 2-way posts. At least that left me with enough to assemble a teeny little building!

Clearly it's the fault of the robocutter software that it didn't realize I was cutting a 4-way post page with a 3-way post cut file... :(  One lost page isn't so bad.

Hopefully I'll be able to snap a picture in the morning. I haven't done any of the tiles yet, so I'll use a Lost Halls of the Dwarven Kings base.

Oh, and I assembled another corner moat piece. I really wanted to get some water transparencies done, but that will have to wait.

With the walls and posts wrapping up nicely, what to do next? My thinking is something like this:

  1. Kitbash TLX columns for catwalks, and catwalk tile pieces.
  2. Build some TLX tiles with the different floor types.
  3. Kitbash destroyed TLX tiles.
  4. Kitbash double-height castle walls. This is where things will get interesting, but I think I want to come up with a double-height 6" wall that can act as the drawbridge piece. Still haven't totally worked out how though, but I have some ideas (see below)... This will be a little tedious because it means making double-height posts too.
  5. Kitbash TLX crenelations (like railings)
  6. Kitbash angled TLX walls. I have the posts already, so I might as well.
  7. Start bashing up some interior buildings! I already have the floors, but this means a whole new set of walls and posts, as well as roofing pieces!
Then there's miscellaneous stuff:
  • Kitbash the towers!
  • Kitbash rounded walls, and crenelations
  • Kitbash TLX format stairs
  • Can the hoardings fit on the catwalk? If not, invent a way so that they can
  • Moat water!

So, on the subject of the drawbridge... here's what I'm thinking. Make a double-height wall with the drawbridge. I'd like to make some sliding portcullis too. The drawbridge would be cut out of the wall completely, and adhered to another layer of cardstock so that the outside overlaps the walls a little. I want to attack some rectangular tabs to the end of the drawbridge door. Then, I'll make some round, barrel-like pieces that are glued to the wall, but that the tabs of the door fit into. I want to use this to let the door be able to turn. I might glue the barrel into a box, to make it easier to fasten it to the wall. Moreover, I might try to cut notches out of the wall and affix this box thing so the door is aligned properly. Lastly, I'll make some cardstock attachment to bar the door in place, prevent it from opening.
 

TLX Castle Walls

There's a LOT of texture combinations possible, and until I build something, I'm not going to have a good feel for what's right. It'd be cool if I could figure out how to produce layered PDF files so I could make it possible to customize the printouts with wall hangings and what-not. Here are some of the exterior castle walls I've got together so far (all regular height):

3" Walls
6" Walls
6" Destroyed Walls


All are available in "full" stone texture, and "capped" stone texture. All are available with or without arrow slits (what do you call those things? I'm sure they have a name, and I'll learn it eventually). The 3" and 6" walls (not the destroyed walls) have three different types of doors available, and also have options for torches on the walls. The 6" walls have the option of torches on the left and right side, or one in the middle. The 6" walls have doors positioned in the center of the tile, as well as on the left and right side.

See, it'd be great to make a layered PDF. Want a 6" tile with TWO doors? How about arrow slits around the door? One layered PDF would let me do that. Guess I have more research to do before I feel happy about it.

GIMP 2.8 performance problems, fixed!

A couple months ago, I bought two fairly beefy desktop computers, and shortly after getting them I started loving making kitbashes again. It was soooo much faster than my old computer. No more running out of memory!

Well, at some point, I installed GIMP 2.8 and I didn't really notice it right away, but really the performance was terrible. I was bummed out because my desktop at work, which is beefy, but not nearly as much as my home machine, was much faster at certain operations (like scrolling, or extending selection regions - REALLY common things like that). I was kind of just living with it up until last night, when my machine blue-screened. I'm a little worried about what this might mean for my hardware, but everything else runs great on my computer, so I did a little searching with Uncle Google.

It turns out, in GIMP 2.8 there's a section under Edit > Preferences for Color Management. Setting the "Mode of operation" to "No color management" made all the difference in the world for performance. There is absolutely no lag in any operations now. I don't know why my machine has issues with color management, and maybe when I have some down time I'll look into it. I'm hoping it's some driver issue that also tickled whatever caused the blue screen.

Anyway, if you're using GIMP 2.8 and are having performance problems where things like making selections or scrolling are really slow, try turning off color management. It just might help.

TLX Castle Posts

Not a LOT of progress to report, but I did spend some time cleaning up the templates that I use to make walls and posts. I'll continue to beef up my collection of templates, making kitbashing a quicker process for the standard pieces. After cleaning up the templates for posts, it only took 10 minutes (maybe less) to make all the standard height walls (2-way, 3-way and 4-way with and without angle support).

I've already got 6" walls with the castle texture applied, so I'm going to try to make 3" walls, and destroyed walls today, so that tonight I can let my robocutter prep a bunch of stuff. If all goes well, I'll have a tiny test build of a single-story mini-castle.

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

TLX Castle Catwalks

With the moat nearing *some* level of conclusion, what's next? I want to tackle something "small" now, so I can have a couple of pieces that go together, before I branch out into something like the drawbridge piece.

I was looking over the Lair of the Dragon God set which I own but have not yet built. It has a system of special columns on which 1" wide catwalk tile pieces can be rested. This would work brilliantly for the top of the castle walls, and they should be really quick to produce.

I will start with only square pieces - no round crenelations in the immediate future... I think I want to build a 12"x12" keep. That should be large enough for me to build up some basic walls that would warrant such a structure.

After that, I think I'll tackle towers. I'd like to create fold-flat versions of the octagonal towers that could also act as posts for TLX walls. Ideally, it would somehow expose an angled wall on the interior, allowing for a door into the tower. I need to do a little math to see what I can come up with. I'd like to avoid non-standard wall sizes, so I'll look at the "short" diagonal wall length.

Castle moat in TLX format, pt 2

Good progress made last night! I built a straight and corner moat piece using the original dimensions so I could measure out the height of the triangular walls. That let me quickly fix the walls I did myself so they are now more like the originals - they slope on both sides, and are the same height as the originals, which should allow the gatehouse drawbridge door to fit correctly, at least vertically.

Here's the originals:


I didn't bother mounting them to foamcore. I just wanted to get a feel for their size. Here's a shot of my 1" grid TLX format pieces:


A couple of things to note. They ARE narrower. By quite a bit. I'll illustrate that with a side-by-side shot of one of the pieces in old and new formats. Also, the corner piece doesn't have a real functional grid in it. I decided I don't care. I don't think the grid inside the moat is really THAT important. What happened is that I tried to keep 2" lined up in the middle of the grid (maybe that was a mistake) and so in the corner, it doesn't allow for the bend to align with 1" squares. I am not sure I'll ever have much happening IN the moat.

Here's that side-by-side comparison:


Much smaller, but it's a true TLX tile. I could consider using a full 6" tile for both the straight and corner pieces, but then I'd have to have some ground texture around the outsides. The narrow pieces seem good enough.

Last thing to do is install some water, and make a couple more of each so I can show it off better.

Monday, July 9, 2012

Castle moat in TLX format

Having never actually built the original moat pieces (I really need to stop jumping the gun and actually build what I'm trying to convert!) I tried to convert the CastleWorks Ultimate moat to be TLX compatible. The result?




OK. My office lighting and my cell phone (and my photography skills) don't help here. But, it's a TLX hallway tile with the moat textures applied to it, and I built two triangles for the sides. Now, I think on the original, it's using a tile that is wider than a TLX hallway, so I had to adjust a little. I've got a 20' gap between the walls. Also, out of convenience, I made the walls vertical on the inside, not at a slope. The result is easy to work with, but it might end up making it harder for me to bash up the gate that is supposed to go over this.

It was a quick first attempt. I'll probably build a non-TLX straight moat piece just to get a better feel for the geometry, then I might scale things around on my version so that it's compatible, height-wise. Even without anything else, it'll be kind of cool to have a TLX moat system.

That white piece of paper will be my transparency pattern. I'll print out the water texture onto a 2"x6" strip with little tabs on the sides. Those tabs fit into slots cut out of the sides of the moat. I thought of this after fully assembling the tile, but I'll think ahead on my next piece.

Hip Roof modifications

Someone on the WorldWorksGames forums asked about making hip roofs with the Thoumont's set. It can't be done with the out-of-the-box pieces, but some quick modifications got me here:


I don't know if that's enough of a slope, but it was super easy to whip up. Here's what it looks like flattened out:


I did this test with 3" roof pieces, since they all fit on one page.I didn't try very hard to get the shingle textures to line up, and frankly I don't think it's so bad that it warrants extra fiddling.

Now, this is taped up. Thinking of how I could make this into a single TLX piece, I might consider taking the middle piece as the place to score and fold the inside and outside together. The extra flap on top of the middle piece isn't really necessary, I don't think. What I'm not sure about is how easy it will be to insert a piece like this into a truss. At least with the tape, there's enough flexibility at the joints that I can put it together easily. I think it would work. I also imagine that it'll scale up to a 6" piece as well, though at that point, I'd probably need to print the inside and outside separately and glue them together rather than fold them together.

I'm pretty sure I can't trim this down in length at all and still fit it in with TLX pieces. Oh well, It's a good proof of concept.

Friday, July 6, 2012

Himmelveil Ruins

After sending in the kitbash that contained the Hinterland Forests tile that showed a bit of Himmelveil Streets poking through (here) I started thinking about ruined city walls. There are very few ruined walls in the fantasy lineup, as far as I can tell. So, here's a quick attempt at making some ruined walls for Himmelveil:


I threw some cracks over the bricks, tried to grime up the walls so they weren't so darn bright, and added a little debris at the base of the wall. There are several wall textures in the Himmelveil Streets set, so maybe I'll try a couple. I'm also interested in cutting this wall down into two separate pieces, allowing for some free-floating wall sections to hang off the posts. I'll try to take the wall above and just use cutfiles to break it into two pieces.

EDIT: I have been thinking about the ruins pieces. I like the idea, but I need there to be more than just two broken walls. I think I'm going to try to make broken walls in 3" and 6" formats using two different textures, then I'll think about broken floors. Making the 6" broken floors should be relatively easy (though tedious - I better keep the debris on layers so I can make 1.5" and grid-less tile formats). I had the idea to make a broken bridge - there's a bridge wall that's designed to straddle a hallway tile. I'd like to chop the bridge into two pieces, and make a third piece that would essentially rest on the ground (the broken part). Then I'd like to make a hallway tile that's broken in the middle. Or, maybe it's just a broken 3" tile than I can use on each end. No, I think hallway, since I want to texture it into three pieces.

WWG claims to be taking kitbash submissions!

It's a bit of "I'll believe it when I see it" but the folks at WorldWorksGames have announced that kitbashes are back! There are a couple of changes to the submission guidelines, so I took some time last night to clean up a couple smaller sets of tiles and submit them. I won't clean up *all* of the sets until I see that something is really happening on their end. One thing I did was take the time to make TLX Planner files for the sets I submitted. It's kind of a nice touch for people who have paid for the planner.

I'm excited, though, to see some kitbashes get accepted - it's the part of the hobby I seem to enjoy the most!

UPDATE: I got some feedback requesting that I make the tiles I'm submitting in 1.5" grid and grid-less versions as well. At first I was annoyed that they'd even ask - it's a good deal of busy work doing this, and I'm not even going to use those formats. But, I did a grid-less set of my shoreline pieces, and it didn't feel like an impossible task. There might be some I *won't* do, but I'll take the request as a sign that the tiles are useful enough that they'd like them available to users of all the formats. I'll try.

UPDATE 2: I got even more feedback that they'd like the tiles in anchored and anchorless formats too! Well, frankly compared to making the different grid formats, this is easy peasy. So, at this point, I've really only submitted ONE set of tiles - the shoreline stuff. It's in all three grid formats with and without anchor marks. Phew. I'll take my time and submit the others as I feel like it. It's a lot more work than just whipping up a couple tiles for myself and sharing it with others like I *thought* kitbashing was going to be!

Thursday, July 5, 2012

More castle TLX conversion

Walls and floors are easy. Here's an example of one of the floor textures. In total, I whipped up (from the two floor textures available) 4x 6" tiles, 4x hallway tiles, and 4x small tiles. They come in anchored and anchorless formats.

I might try tinkering a little with the tile shown above, but the others look fine. My issue with the 6" tile above is that it's made from two 3x6" tiles glued together, and the horizontal seam along the middle really stands out too much. I can try a couple things to minimize the obviousness of the seam, but I won't spend too much time on it.

Maybe tonight I'll work on posts, so I can start building some structures. Posts usually require a lot more creativity, or a complete lack of creativity...

A quick stab at castle walls

I took a look at what I'd have to work with from the Castleworks Ultimate set, and it turns out there's quite a lot. I think I made the walls upside-down, but at least it proves it isn't hard to make a TLX-compatible wall from the textures I can extract from the pdfs.

There's even a page with nothing but doors and another with windows. I'm wondering how well these would combine with other textures too... I'll keep trying.