Friday, December 30, 2011

The Maiden - Day 3

After some encouraging words from the WorldWorksGames forums, I pushed on with the building. After finishing up the few remaining details on the hull, I tackled the stern castle. This went together quickly, with only two minor hiccups... For starters, there's a door that I opted to cut open. Unfortunately, I hinged it on the wrong side! I reprinted that piece and didn't repeat that mistake. After that, I installed the roof support pieces. I had just installed seven of the eight, and discovered they were all upside-down. I think it would have been OK to leave it that way, but the glue hadn't totally set on them, so I was able to peel them off and re-glue them in the right orientation.

Here's the finished stern castle:


This is what it looks like from the front, with the roof piece placed on it:

Well, the evening was still young, so I started on the forecastle. It too went together pretty quickly. I mean, "quickly" is a relative term. What with all the little railing cutouts and the edging, I suppose it wasn't THAT quick. This time, only one mistake! The roof supports again... This time, I spray-glued the tabs together that are, well, not supposed to be glued together... No fixing that - I printed out another sheet and tried again.

Well, the evening isn't young anymore. Here's where I'm at:

So, it's clear now I can't continue on without transparencies. I decided not to use them for all the windows, but I need to print the ratlines (is that what they're called?) on something!

Thursday, December 29, 2011

The Maiden - Day 2

 Not a whole lot of progress for day 2 - we had a busy schedule and a house guest. Still I am almost finished with "step 2" of the build - completing the hull.

I'm getting nervous though that some of the pieces aren't set properly. I'm going to try to get some advice from the great folks in the WorldWorksGames Forums to see if anyone can see that my build is still OK, or if I'm headed for disappointment. Here are some shots of how things are going:


These shots give an idea of the size of the ship. It's BIG, and it's not done yet..


Here's a shot of one of the issues I have - the front of the ship is bowing outward a bit, and it makes for a poor fit for the second floor.


Tuesday, December 27, 2011

The Maiden - Day 1

Given that this is a vacation week for me, I thought it'd be a good time to start something BIG. I can't think of any other words do describe The Maiden. Ok. Gorgeous would work as well. I spent several hours today printing, cutting, edging and gluing, and I've only begun to put a dent in this build. It's looking very pretty though, and I'm always amazed at how sturdy the construction is. Here are a couple small pictures of the work-in-progress:




I'm really glad I dealt with my printer issues, so the printouts aren't too dark now. There's a ton of great detail in every piece, and it really stinks to lose any of it.

Right now, there are a lot of ship *pieces* but not a whole lot of ship. We're taking a day trip into Boston to see the USS Constitution - a fun coincidence that might be good inspiration during this big build!

Color Test

I've been plagued with dark printouts since I started papercrafting. I've tried a couple tweaks to the settings, but ink isn't exactly cheap, and the printouts weren't unusable, so I kind of settled for what I got. Well, now that I have a continuous ink system hooked up, the ink should be a lot less expensive so I decided to actually solve my dark printout problem.

I use a Canon Pixma MX870 printer.

Here's a shot of what I would normally get out of my printer.

Camera issues aside (ain't it great to rely on a phone's camera?) the image is DARK. You can hardly tell that there's green stuff growing on the sides, and details are getting lost. Normally I've been using "Standard" printer settings with "Plain" paper. For this, I tried using "Matte Photo Paper", and the results were the same.

Next, I changed the printing to be "Photo Printing" rather than "Regular". This changed the options available to me. Most notably, "Color/Intensity Manual Adjustment". Still with "Matte Photo Paper", I checked the "Color/Intensity" checkbox and tweaked two things. First, I set the Brightness setting to "Light" rather than "Normal". Second, I adjusted the "Intensity" from 0 to -10 (making the image lighter). Here's a sample of that:



The image is a little blurry, but I think it's a great improvement over the previous image. You can start to see more of the color on the sides, and the images on the inside are more true to the original image.

Next, I changed the "Intensity" to -20. Here's what that looked like:


Here's "Intensity" at -40:

 And lastly, I changed the print settings to "Vivid Photo" while "Intensity" was at -40:


OK. I'm not sure there's much visible difference given my crummy photos. In person, I can say that the -40 intensity really lets the shadows come out in the photo rather than be overwhelmed by the overall darkness. The Vivid Photo setting turned the neutral green color into a toxic green color, which isn't quite what I'd be going for.

I'm going to have a go at printing the Hinterland Cliffs set out using this setting, and I'll post pics comparing my existing Hinterland tiles to the new tiles.

Warlock Blade

Last year, the good folks at WorldWorksGames had Christmas promotions on various products. One of those products was the Warlock Blade from their Forge line of props. I don't know what was holding me back... It might have been that I never seemed to have enough foamcore or enough sticker paper handy to make the thing. It might have been that I was a little intimidated because it's different than the things I'm used to building. For whatever reason, I never attempted it.

Well, I bit the bullet and had a go! With the exception of the hilt, I printed everything out on sticker paper and laid things out onto black foamcore. I almost messed up and put ALL of the stickers down onto the foamcore. There are some pieces that are meant to be two sides to a single piece of foamcore... I'm glad I caught myself. They have a nice system of using thumb tacks to line up the printouts on both sides of the foamcore. The whole build took a little over an hour to complete. I skipped the edging that I could have put around the blade. The black foamcore looks OK enough for me, and I could only imagine the stickers not adhering to the sides too well and being more trouble than they are worth.

So, without further ado, here are a couple photos:


From end to end, the whole thing is a little over 3' I think.


My printouts were rather dark, and some of the great details on the hilt are lost. I am pretty sure I'll make at least one more sword (using one of the alternate blade styles) and I'll try to fix the print brightness for that. I also think it would be fun to shorten the hilt a bit and chop the blade down to short sword length. I might take the whole thing and scale it down 70% for my kids!

Christmas Roundup

Another Christmas has come and gone. After a nice quiet morning with the wife and kids, we spent the 25th at my in-laws' place. Lots of good food and just good natured hanging out. The kids always have a blast getting together with their cousins. The next day we went to my parents house to round out the celebrating.

But what does this have to do with Paper Dungeon? Well, one of the gifts I received this year was a continuous ink system for my printer! This has the potential for great savings when printing out all of the stuff I purchased this year. Dave Graffam had a *great* sale on his building bundle so now I have a HUGE pile of buildings to make. WorldWorksGames had a *great* sale on their entire catalog, so now I have a HUGE pile of tile sets to build. And of course, there's a backlog of paper standees I've been waiting to build!

Setting up the ink system turned out to be really easy. Of course, something always goes wrong, and I managed to make a mess of the ink while installing the system. If you follow the instructions correctly, it should be a fairly simple *and clean* process. I took the rubber stoppers off of the ink tanks, allowing the ink to flow freely. You're supposed to do this AFTER you've installed the ink cartridges, not BEFORE. Blech. Anyway, I immediately was able to do some test photo prints, and they look great! So, I'm hoping to fill up a couple reams of cardstock with great projects, and then slowly work my way through them with the ol' robocutter!

In theory this means more posts, more often! Yeah, right. We'll see!

Monday, December 5, 2011

Odds and ends

I'm still waiting for the holiday season to pass. The end of the year is tough, because I have to hold back on buying anything until after my Birthday and Christmas are over... Well, the good folks at WorldWorksGames put their inventory on sale, so I *did* make some advanced purchases... but I'm still holding back on printing or building anything until after the gifts have been exchanged!

I can't seem to keep the home office cleaned, and papercrafting doesn't help. I went through and organized all of my pieces and put together a stack of old tiles that need repairing. I noticed all of the stairs I've built have warped quite a bit. I took some scrap foamcore and cut them to fit along the inside walls of the steps. They've really improved the stairs a lot. Not only are they not warped at all, but the extra weight really helps them sit in place. I'll make this a standard part of my stair building in the future!

Monday, November 7, 2011

Time out, pt 3

The end is finally in sight. October turned out to be a crazy month with family activities, and tough deadlines at work. At some point, I even pulled a muscle in my back which really messed me up for a while...

We celebrated my in-laws 50th anniversary. Part of my responsibility was making invitations and designing some boxes to house centerpieces. It felt rewarding to be able to put my cardstock skills to good use. It turned out to be more work than I had thought, but both projects turned out really well.

Halloween came and went, and as a fun project, I pulled down some Halloween clip art and made some robocutter files for them. We ended up with ghosts, witches and other spooky table decorations, some bats for the windows and larger bats to hang from the ceiling. I love having the robocutter!

I've got a pile of unfinished things sitting on the keyboard tray under my desk. I finally got around to finishing the big rock head that comes in the Hinterland Forest set, and I've been slowly gathering some standees to use in actual game sessions. I hope to download and make a bunch more - they really are so much nicer than little cardboard circles with letters on them.

Now that October has passed, I'm hoping to get back into a couple projects. For starters, I revisited my fencing system. I cleaned up the geometry, and have been working on making it work better in 6" segments in addition to the 3" segments I already have. That's coming along nicely. I also tweaked it so I can link multiple segments together, allowing for a more free-form layout of fences.  I need to touch up the stone files a little bit, then I need to totally redo the wood fences. After that, I might try an often requested white-washed fence.

I REALLY want to get back to finishing the darn Harbormaster walls. I was so close before I lost all my work, but I'm that much wiser about how to go about making them, that I think I can do an OK job.

And of course, my birthday and Christmas are coming. I'm hoping to install a continuous ink system, making it cheaper to print so much stuff out. Then I'll go crazy and start up a number of new sets. Finally I'll get some cliffs! And the new Feisty Friar set should be out by then, which looks to be a lot of fun.

More to come!

Monday, September 5, 2011

Liar's Cards Instructions

I think these instructions capture the game I settled on and tried with my kids.


It's a variation on a bluffing game like Liar's Dice, though played with a variable number of cards, and make a little use of the Roll Arena. A little more tweaking and I'll have a completed kitbash.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Roll Arena Kitbash! Liar's Cards!

Of course having the Roll Arena completed isn't enough. I wanted to come up with some cards that would complement the set, with some rules for a simple game. Here's what the cards came out looking like:


I made new card backs using the wooden texture from the box. On the card faces, I stretched the scroll across the entire card face and put the card value in the center. I think they came out pretty nice. They're pretty much ready for a kitbash packaging - I'd have to do one more sheet of cards since I left off the cards with the shield, sword and dove -- I had no use for them in the game I'm planning.

Once I get a pile of cards done (I'm thinking I'll need at least 45 cards) I'll try out the game with the kids. If it works, I'll put up the rules!

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Roll Arena

The folks at WorldWorksGames released something called the "Roll Arena" - it's a game aid that gives you a place to roll your dice, store your dice, store game cards (it comes with some card templates too) and has special "wheels" you can add to the rolling area that give targets for your dice. It's really neater than it sounds...

Anyway, I scooped it up, and built one today. The geometry is great. I think the end result, even with my wonky mistakes, looks pretty darn classy.


The card drawer features three card trays. There are dice trays on the sides.

I'd like to build at least one more, and I'd like to try some things differently this time. For starters, I'd like to make sure I build the trays FIRST. The provided instructions don't build the trays until the box is assembled. Well, it turns out I was off by ONE MILLIMETER on one of the tray openings, and that's enough to make the tray really hard to use. Had I built the trays first, I'd have laid them on the base when gluing the other pieces down, ensuring that there's enough room for them.

Another thing -- the card tray often goes in a little skewed, so when it gets to the back of the box, it snags on corners of things. I think a simple cardstock guide on both sides of the tray would fix this.

When I put the sides of the top layer together, I didn't have anything that I could use to make sure I was lining things up vertically. There's one side piece that sticks out a tiny bit. It's hardly a big deal, but my OCD makes me focus on these things.

Lastly, the top base plate is made of two halves that you need to hold together. The instructions recommend "matboard or cereal box board" but I didn't have any. I used a single sheet of cardstock. In the future, I'll try to use at least two layers of cardstock under it, not just one.

When I made the wheels that go in the rolling area, I had two layers of cardstock between two wheels, so it's four layers of cardstock altogether, and it feels nice and sturdy.

I'm really glad I picked this up. If nothing else, it's attractive storage for some game stuff, and it really feels good to have put it together.

Friday, August 19, 2011

Time out, pt 2

Well, I was able to finish gluing the remainder of the 6" tiles, and I got the office space a little more organized. Sadly, I went to take a look at the Harbormaster walls I was working on the other night, and apparently the file got corrupted. It only opens the first six layers, which means I've lost most of the work I've done. Gah.

I might have a backup recent enough to make me feel a little better, but as it stands, it feels like a big setback.

Time out

I'm still churning out tiles, but I'm slowing down considerably. The release of TerraClips has been a little bit demoralizing for me. I've put in a lot of time making TLX tiles, and I feel like TerraClips might stand to cannibalize the resources WWG has for making new stuff. There are still plenty of sets I haven't made yet - Hinterland Cliffs, Oubliette of Peril, Lair of the Dragon God... And even with the sets I have, there's a bunch of things I never got around to building - proper stairs for Thoumont's and The Garden, railings for the Lost Halls, and a bunch of Hinterland Forest props. But my motivation is lacking lately, so I'm slowing down.

I'm trying to finish off a large run of tiles. I went and printed, cut and edged about 50 6" tiles from the Himmelveil Streets and Himmelveil Canals sets. I cut the tile mounts out and am working on the gluing. None of the tiles have tabs, so I haven't tried to make any posts or walls yet. I'll see what I feel like doing once the tiles are all squared away. Part of what is slowing me down is the mess I've created in my office. There are tile and wall bits EVERYWHERE.

I think my plan of attack is this - first I'll finish off the 6" tiles that I've got prepped.

After that, I'm going to clean up the office. It is a little overwhelming when everything is all over the place, and I'm sure it's driving my wife nuts.

Following that, I will focus on finishing my TLX Harbormaster building. That entails another pass at the wall textures (I've been adding some grime textures that help out, I think). My Harbormaster building has a first floor, and I'll start building walls for a second floor. Then, I need to really think of how to transfer the non-TLX roof onto my building. I think I lose a lot of character from the original set if I don't use the original roof somehow.

I won't plan any farther ahead than that. Maybe after that I'll be ready for another break, which would give me the chance to go back and edge some of the posts I haven't gotten to yet, or repair some more tiles.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Colorizing Thoumont's Roof Textures

Thoumont's comes with a set of blue roof textures. One obvious way to get some variety out of the set is to colorize the roof pieces. It turns out there are a LOT of pieces you'd have to do to pull this off - 6" roof, 3" roof, trusses, gables, etc. There's just a lot of pieces in the Thoumont's set.

Here are two examples of a change in color:



I admit I didn't spend a lot of time on this. I think the shading needs more black in the dark areas - I could probably play with the color ranges a little.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Stairwell Kitbash

I'm pretty sure the intended way to handle stairs is to simply put a 2d set of stairs on the 2nd floor, letting players know where the stairs are. There's no real benefit to having an actual hole in the floor. But, for whatever reason, I haven't adopted doing this. What I find myself doing is leaving a 3x3 area open.

What I end up with then is the desire to fill in most of that area, or have a railing to block off the exposed area. So, I messed around a little with a 3x3 tile, and here's what I came up with:


What you're looking at is a 2x3 tile that can fill in the area, leaving a 1x3 area exposed for the stairs below. I can imagine a kind of stairwell setup where you alternate these tiles, exposing the stairs on one side, then the other.

I think I accomplished one of my goals, which was to avoid having to make a lot of really custom pieces. Here's an exploded view of the pieces involved:


So, I started with a 3x3 piece, and cut 1" off one side. I then cut out two of the tab slots half their normal width. I started with the assumption that having the whole corner of the piece cut out wouldn't be structurally sound, so I figured this was a good alternative. I just chopped a corner off a normal tab. This can be inserted up-side down to go in either side of the tile.

I haven't actually kitbashed the texture yet. I just took a 3x3 tile and started cutting by hand. I will probably rework the angles of the flaps to try to get the most strength out of it as I can. If possible, I might even be able to get a full tab slot on the side that currently has none. This might be good for adding a railing to the side. It's unlikely that it's necessary to have anchors on the tile, so when I make a real texture for it, I'll probably go anchorless.


Here's another picture with the tabs lined up and ready to go in.

Monday, July 11, 2011

Additional Thoumont's Plans

The promo shots of the TLX version of Thoumont's has a neat building I want to try making sometime. I decided to whip up a TLX Planner file that attempts to capture the structure of the building. Here's what I came up with:


The first floor of the building is divided into two sections - plenty of room for some tables, storage, etc. I might rethink the first floor to be a little more imaginative. See that little alcove on the left? I might change the floor tile to be the grey stone floor, and put a wall with a door on it, and make that a storage room.


The second floor has plenty o' space for having maybe a stage for performances or something. One major thing that's lacking here is stairs up to the third level. I need to think more about that. I'm seriously thinking of kitbashing a 3"x3" tile with a slot cut out for stairs, so I could make a sort of spiral staircase sort of thing. I always find myself fighting with how to arrange the stairs.


The third level has a neat deck area. It would stink to not be able to access this! The remaining levels are all infrastructure for the roof pieces.



Friday, July 8, 2011

Thoumont's plans

As a proof of concept to demonstrate having markers in the TerrainlinX Planner, I went ahead and designed my Thoumont's layout in the planner. Here's what it looks like:






I only made a couple props from the Thoumont's set, and I made use of the monster markers. I would like to make markers for the different types of trees and rocks of the Hinterland Forest and Garden sets, and would like to make markers for things like crate piles and other props. Gotta start somewhere, right?

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Modifying the TLX Planner - Part 2

I went and created forum topics for how to modify the TerrainlinX Planner with new markers or tiles. Hopefully others find the information useful. I was asked to also submit the modified markers as a kitbash, so that's just what I did. Here's the snapshot I provided with it:


It works pretty well, the markers. I hope to make markers for the trees from the Hinterland Forest set. That'll be pretty neat to see, I think.

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Modifying the TLX Planner

I requested a feature of the TLX planner software on the WWG forums. I wanted to be able to add monsters or props to the scenes. Some kind member claimed it was possible, and actually quite easy to add your own .tlx files.

So that's just what I did.

  

Sorry if it's hard to see from the picture, but the letters on the left are from a .tlx file I created called "Monsters: Normal Size"  It contains markers for every letter in the alphabet, and the marker is one 1" square large. To use them, I created a new layer on top of my map, and set transparency to "100%". It's on this new layer that I added the monster tokens.

This has its pros and cons.

One nice thing about doing this is that the monster tokens are always on top of the tiles. If I didn't do this, then any tile I add AFTER adding a monster token will be ON TOP of the monster token.

One negative aspect to this is that I have to set transparency of ALL layers to "100%", making it harder to do the actual planning. It also means that I wouldn't be able to see the tile layer above or below the layer I'm editing.

I think for now the negative is not a big deal. I can temporarily adjust transparencies to create my images, and I can slide layers up or down if I really need to see them. In any case, it proves that I can kind of be done.

I'm going to take a stab at modifying the markers to include monster tokens. This might be more what I'm looking for. It doesn't look like I can just add new .wwz files like I can .tlx files though.

EDIT: It's great to know I can make .tlx files, but it turns out I can easily add to an existing .wwz file. Adding the markers to generic_markers.wwz was trivial, and works out much nicer - the tokens will always be ON TOP of the tiles, and it will display the whole set of markers in a much more compact fashion. No more fiddling with transparencies, and no more fiddling with extra layers!

Monday, July 4, 2011

A Ghoul's Plight

My 6-year-old decided he wanted to try D&D again. He had tried when he was 5, playing along with his brother who is a couple years older. It was a bit much for him to follow along with, and he couldn't read so it really held him back.

So, to let him try again, I dusted off his dwarven cleric named Adrik, printed off some power cards that he could read himself, and put together a scenario.


The setup was this: Adrik was passing through a small town, and settling own to an evening of ale and storytelling. As he finishes a story, a local tells him about an old woodcutter who has been having trouble in his woods - something about pests among the trees keeping him from being able to collect his wood.

Not one to turn away from a plea for help, Adrik follows the dirt path through the forest. He arrives as the afternoon is starting its transition into evening at a wooden house amongst the trees. Using the end of his war hammer to rap on the door, an old voice calls him inside.

In the far corner sits a grey old man. The two share an exchange that informs Adrik of the pests in the woods. Wild animals that attack whenever he tries to go out far enough to collect wood. He tells Adrik that there's a clearing just beyond the line of trees. It is there that he has been attacked. The old man promises whatever valuables he has as a reward.

Adrik finds the opening and confidently but quietly heads into the clearing. Ready for some wolves or some such beast, he acts as though he was there to chop wood, trying to anticipate any attack. As the evenings light fades, Adrik turns to leave, disappointed at the calmness of the forest. It is then, as Adrik lowers his hammer and begins to head for the path through the trees back to the house, that he catches a glimpse of motion from the ground.

Boney fingers begin wriggling through the dirt, eventually punching through the surface and pulling skeletal frames through the earth. Within moments, Adrik finds himself surrounded by clattering bones of skeletal warriors. Most clutch bones as crude clubs, though behind him stands a sturdy skeleton clad in rusted armor and wielding a sword of well worn metal.

It turns out Adrik was a born skeleton destroyer. It was only due to the sheer number of undead foes that Adrik breaks a sweat. In the end, Adrik stood among piles of crushed bones. Were these the things that were attacking the old man? Adrik heads back to the house to inform him of what has transpired.

The old man is visibly surprised when Adrik returns. Adrik begins to explain what happened, but the old man's expression changes from surprise to rage. As he rises from his chair, Adrik is caught off guard at the strength the old man exhibits. It's then that Adrik notices the mans eyes - no longer cloudy and grey, they burn with a yellowish anger. His fingers are tipped with razor-like nails. This is no ordinary old man.

It turns out the old woodsman was killed and eaten by a ghoul. The ghoul was possessing the remains of his victims, using them to help capture more flesh on which he would feed. Adrik was never meant to survive the attack. The ghoul attempts to finish Adrik off himself, though the cleric is able to trade blows and eventually overpower the creature.

In the end, bloodied and tired, Adrik returns to the ale house he left that afternoon, and had another pint of ale. Much as the adventure began, he found himself relating another heroic tale to whomever would listen.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

The Tavern and Tower

Here's another simple plan for some TLX buildings. I toyed with a sewer level, but I don't have any plans in the near future to build a sewer set (I'm working on streets and canals right now...) so perhaps the underground level will be done with Lost Halls pieces.

The first level shows the footprint of the buildings. The tavern is represented by the two upper structures. The tower is in the lower right. The small section of tavern on the right should contain bales, barrels, bags... whatever. Make it a store room. The door to the outside would be locked. There are stairs leading up to the second floor of the tavern. There is a trap door leading down to more fun, but it should be hidden by stuff.



On the second floor, there is more seating for general carousing. I tried to put a balcony area there - I've never made one before. What I don't know is whether I'll be able to make railings to go around the balcony or not. Seems dangerous to be selling ale and not have railings on the balcony... Well, I guess the worst case is I'll be able to make a custom railing.

The tower continues to climb. I will probably use the tower for some evil guy to inhabit - keeping watch on the area from the upper floors.


The tower keeps going up... When will it stop? I guess when you run out of TLX tiles! I didn't indicate it in the image, but I'll probably build this with a 4-way post in the center of every level. The tavern gets it's trusses. The wall behind the balcony will need a connector to make it double-height.




I wonder what will be waiting at the top...

  
Ok. That's far enough. Time to cap off the tower.


Monday, June 27, 2011

Harbormaster Layout Plans

I started tinkering with the TerrainlinX Planner to see what I might want to do with my random Harbormaster pieces I've created. Having a pile of half-finished walls and posts isn't any fun, so making some plans so I have a goal hopefully will get some pieces finished off.

Now, the planner doesn't have my modified tiles, so I'm using textures from the Thoumont's set for the floors. Surrounding the building are tiles from the Himmelveil Streets and Himmelveil Harbor sets. Those tiles are all printed out, but I have a lot of assembly to do...

On the first floor, I expect to pull in lots of crates and barrels, and the counter from the Thoumont's set. That'll fill the 6"x6" room. There's a back door leading out to the pier where shipments will come in.


The stairs lead into a small storage area in front of the bedroom. I'll find some props to fill in here. Then in the back room there are more stairs heading up. I'll find a way to work in the original Harbormaster props like work desks and stuff. It'd be kinda fun to see if I can't get a fireplace in this room and work the chimney up through the roof system.


The third floor is really just a platform leading out onto a deck area overlooking the harbor. I don't think the areas under the roof will be used for anything in particular.


The remainder of the layers are just infrastructure stuff:


I think I have most of the floor tiles completed, and I think the walls are at least cut if not already glued. It's been so long since I worked on this that I need to do an inventory and move on from there. But the upper floors will be all Thoumont's. I did make some custom walls that took the plaster-and-beam walls of Thoumont's and redid the plaster sections in blue and in yellow so they matched the first floor a little better. I guess I'll find out if it "works" by building it!

Friday, June 3, 2011

Edging tip

I made a mistake with my first set - I didn't edge any of the pieces. I've been able to go back over the pieces and color in most edges, but there are some things I just couldn't fix easily.

I've learned that before gluing my tiles together, I not only edge the perimeter of the tile, but also around the tab flaps and underneath the corners. On my original tiles, I didn't glue the sides so they were vertical - I glued them so they slanted in a little. This caused some overlap to show the underside of the cardstock. Coloring under the cardstock a little prevents this from happening again.


Here's another edging shot: